Plumbing Questions, Answered

We're open Monday through Friday from 8am to 7pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Call 513-540-4575 or send a request through our estimate form, and we'll set up a time that works for you. Messages left while we're closed are returned when we open.

We work throughout greater Cincinnati, including Hamilton, Butler and Warren counties. See our service areas page for the towns we visit most, or call to confirm your address.

Call us during business hours and we'll get you on the schedule as quickly as we can. If you have an active leak, shut off water at the main valve or at the fixture's own shutoff until we arrive.

Every job gets a flat-rate quote before any work begins, so the price you approve is the price you pay. Estimates are free, and there are no surprise line items added at the end.

Yes. Through Wisetack you can finance qualifying jobs from $500 to $25,000 with terms from 3 to 60 months, and checking your options won't affect your credit score. Details are on our financing page.

Our labor is covered by a 1-year warranty. If something we installed or repaired isn't right, call us and we'll come back and make it right.

Yes. We hold Ohio Plumbing Contractor License #50644 and Indiana Plumbing Contractor License #PC12400229, and we're fully insured. The work is done by our own team, not subcontractors or a franchise.

We pull permits wherever the local code requires them and schedule the inspection, so the job gets signed off by the inspector. You can see a few of our approved inspection tags on the About page.

On a gas unit the usual suspects are the pilot, thermocouple or gas control valve; on an electric unit it's often a heating element, thermostat or tripped breaker. We test the parts, tell you what failed, and quote the repair or a replacement.

It depends on the type and size of heater, the fuel, and what the venting and connections need. We look at your setup and give you a flat-rate quote upfront, before anything is removed.

A leak from a fitting or the relief valve can often be repaired. Water coming from the tank itself usually means the tank has corroded through, and replacement is the only real fix. Turn off the water supply to the heater and call us.

A tank heater costs less upfront and is simple to replace. A tankless unit takes less space and heats on demand, so it doesn't run out during back-to-back showers. We'll compare both for your household and fuel type. More on our tankless page.

Usually not, beyond a small part. At that age the tank is near the end of its life, and putting money into it rarely pays off. Replacing it on your schedule beats replacing it after it leaks.

Yes, when it's sized for it. Output depends on the unit's capacity and how cold the incoming water is, so we size the heater to the number of fixtures you run at the same time.

Common signs are a pump that hums without moving water, runs nonstop, turns on and off rapidly, or makes grinding noises. Pour a bucket of water into the pit; if it doesn't start and empty the pit, call us.

A standard pump stops when the power goes out, and outages often happen during the same storms that fill the pit. A battery backup keeps water moving for a while on its own, which matters most if you have finished space below grade.

If it's one fixture, a clogged aerator or worn cartridge is likely. If it's the whole house, it could be a failing pressure reducing valve, a partly closed main valve, or a leak on the service line. We check from the meter in to find it.

Water chemistry and age wear copper thin from the inside until small holes form. We repair the leak and check the rest of the run; if pinholes keep showing up, replacing that section or repiping saves you from chasing leaks.

When leaks keep coming back, galvanized pipe has choked down your pressure, or the water runs rusty, patching stops making sense. A repipe with copper or PEX replaces the supply lines in one planned job. See whole-house repiping.

A valve that won't close fully, leaks at the stem or is seized should be replaced. We take out the old valve and put in a new quarter-turn valve so it works the next time you need it.

It depends on the length of the line, how deep it's buried and what's in the way. We look at the property and give you an upfront flat-rate price before we dig.

Much of the area does, and it shows up as scale on fixtures, spotty dishes and shorter water heater life. We can test your water hardness on-site so you know where your home stands.

Yes. We install under-sink reverse osmosis systems that filter the water going to a dedicated drinking-water faucet, cutting down on dissolved minerals and many other things that affect taste. It's a good fit if you want better drinking and cooking water without treating the whole house.

They solve different problems. A softener takes out the hardness minerals that cause scale. A filter targets things like chlorine taste, odor or sediment. Some homes need one, some both; testing tells us which.

Queen City CARES is our program to assist local residents in need with essential plumbing repairs. You can nominate a neighbor on the CARES page.